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  • Where did you get your founding rats from?
    All of my rats are sourced from various Colorado breeders - some have relocated or are no longer in operation now. My main line, bred primarily for temperament and health, come from Blue Heart Rattery, who's line primarily stems from Phoenix Gate and Bella's Nest. Phoenix Gate, also works closely with Bella's Nest lines. This line was primarily founded under Bella's Nest and is a 20 year old line of rats, bred for a pocket puppy like temperament, and excellent health. Other rats in my founding stock come from breeders which include: Ratalogy Tales and Ratsalotta Rats. I do not, however, have plans to breed the rat I got from Ratalogy Tales, as he was meant to be primarily a pet (I had always wanted a blue roan rat, growing up).
  • How much are your rats adoption fees?
    My personally bred rat babies and litters are $100/ea rat. Collected adoption fees always go back into the rats to expand the fun and interactions in their daily lives. A lot of factors go into their price: Food, caging, enrichment & toys, health/preventative care, etc. as well as the quality and integrity in the pedigree of the line being produced and worked on. I feed my rats a high quality dog food with various mix-ins, including but not limited to: Low-No sugar cereals, pasta, fruits & veggies, oats, etc. They run through this diet pretty quickly due to the number of rats and babies I feed at a given time, so I usually have to purchase supplies every few weeks or so. I more often than not use high quality caging from Exotic Nutrition. These cages are a pretty hefty price, but are worth every penny as they give the rats TONS of space and customizations with toys and enrichment items. They're also super easy to clean, to boot, and extremely durable from blemishes, chewing rats, and dents. Simply put, despite the price, they make my busy work life much easier and give me more time with the rats when I can. Toys & Enrichment are a constant thing here as I try to upgrade and change things up for the rats often. Preventative and health care needs include things like mite/lice control with products such as Kitten Revolution when I can't find Ivermectin (which has been a more common scenario for me lately).
  • What all is included with the adoption fee of my rat?
    You are adopting a quality animal like no other with the backing support from their breeder. You are guaranteed a healthy animal with a unique and dog like personality. Of course, genetics can work in funny ways sometimes, and odd-balls do occur. If for some reason, you ever end up with an animal that you are not happy with or is always seemingly sick, I am here to help, however I can to make it right. As your breeder of choice, I am here to support you through the lifetime of your rat(s). I love getting updates, but I love even more to help my adopters through whatever may come to mind. Simple questions, or doubts on the rats health or unsure what to do in certain scenarios - I'm here to help. It doesn't matter if your rat is 2mo or 2yrs old. I promise to do everything in my power to make this commitment as special, easy and smooth as possible. No adoption is the same! I try to tailor my adoptees experiences to their needs and circumstances within reason. The adoption fee helps take care of the rats, and ultimately goes back into their care and enrichment. I'm always trying to find ways to upgrade their cages and toys and give them new fun things to do around the house as well. It is an expensive hobby, but it is worth it seeing families light up after meeting their new rats. I strive to produce animals that you cannot just buy from anywhere, and I equally strive to create an unforgettable experience for each family/adopter from start to finish.
  • For how long may I come to you with any questions or needs I may have after adopting from you?
    For however long you'd like! Heck, even if you haven't adopted from me, feel free to ask me questions or for advice. I am always happy to help and do not believe in gatekeeping my information and experiences. Please do not hesitate to ever reach out to me for any reason.
  • What is the average temperament of your rats? Have you had to neuter any before?
    This is my first year with my rats so I am still learning a lot about them as they age. The lines I breed so far are pretty awesome temperament wise. My boys are lazy playful potatoes. Sometimes they love to just laze around, cuddle, and get pets, and other times, they just wanna bounce around and play with you and eat tons of snacks on your bed. My girls can be a little more diva like and sassy. They're super adventurous and like to try and escape their cages to explore the world outside of it. Girls can be super playful when they aren't on a mission of being up to no good. They're super quirky and expressive, and great companions if you like watching fun behaviors and things. Both genders are social but express it in different ways. I have not had to yet neuter anyone here. Most of my boys can be put back in right after breeding. I haven't had any major run-ins with Hormonal Aggression, enough to warrant trying neutering as a solution. As far as I know, most boys in this line have not needed neutering as well.
  • Do your rats bite through the bars of cages?
    I don't know about you, but I personally LOVE to be able to reach my fingers through the bars of the cage and interact with my rats without always having to open the door. I love running by the cages and greeting them as I'm running out the door to work, petting their tummies, or just getting to scritch their cute faces after a long day. (This obviously isn't my only interaction with them, but it certainly enhances some of the time and interactions I do get to spend with them). Biting through the cage bars is something you have to instill with practice and consistency. I work on bite inhibition with my rats as soon as they open their eyes. Bite inhibition is when an animal has learned how to control the strength of its bite. This is extremely useful in socialization skills, as rats can be very communicative with their mouths. I feel it is important to teach rats proper bite inhibition to lessen accidents in moments of excitement or play. This includes interaction through the bars of the cage. I do not typically wash my hands after eating something before interacting with my rats, so that they learn how to properly act with my hands when there may be a smell on them that they take a fancy to. I find this extremely important for homes with children. That said, if this is something you would like to also be able to do with your rats, they will need some consistency in practice in your home. Here are some tips below: Make sure to first start forming some kind of a bond with your rat before you trust it to not bite through the bars of the cage. Do not ever offer food through the bars of the cage. Always open the cage door and offer food or treats. I know it is convenient to just give it to them through the bars, but if you have multiple rats in a cage, they may someday mistake your finger as a treat and sometimes competition for treats can be hot and it's every rat for themselves. You don't want your finger caught up in that cross-fire! Always associate anything going through the bars of the cage as something good, and something to be calm about and not try and drag off into oblivion. I like to do small pets and scratches - don't get too crazy at first. Good handling practices with your rats includes washing your hands before *and* after interacting with them. You never know what kind of pathogens you may be carrying on you from your day of adventure outside your home. This practice is an extra measure to help keep your furry family safe! As a bonus you can try using various soaps before interacting with them to get them used to your hand smelling differently but not fully attract them to try and eat it. They will be curious, maybe taste test a little bit, but they shouldn't just chomp it. Young rats are still learning bite inhibition, even when they go home with you. For the most part, they're coming out of the mouthy stage (they're like little piranha when their eyes open!), but some can be extra mouthy and want to pull you around their cage to show you stuff, or take you with them. If for some reason, a rat is biting a little too hard for your comfort, you can wiggle your fingers and often times, this causes the rat to ease up on their bite strength next time they interact with your finger. This especially includes through the bars of the cage and seems to work well. An over excited rat, however, may bite harder if it does not understand that it is biting too hard to begin with. At that point, pull your hand away and stop interaction for a moment. If the behavior happens again after you attempt interaction again, stop interacting for longer than the first time. The lack of interaction to the rat is the consequence for biting too hard. They will usually learn to bite softer with this method, and is largely how I teach young rats they're going in a little too hot and to calm it down some.
  • Will your rats bite if I have food smells on my fingers?
    I work on bite inhibition with my rats as soon as they open their eyes. Bite inhibition is when an animal has learned how to control the strength of its bite. This is extremely useful in socialization skills, as rats can be very communicative with their mouths. I feel it is important to teach rats proper bite inhibition to lessen accidents in moments of excitement or play. This includes interaction while having food smells on your fingers. I do not typically wash my hands after eating something before interacting with my rats, so that they learn how to properly act with my hands when there may be a smell on them that they take a fancy to. I find this extremely important for homes with children. That said, if this is something you would like to also be able to do with your rats, they will need some consistency in practice in your home. Here are some tips below: Make sure to first start forming some kind of a bond with your rat before you trust it to not bite over food smelling fingers. Do not ever offer food through the bars of the cage. Always open the cage door and offer food or treats. I know it is convenient to just give it to them through the bars, but if you have multiple rats in a cage, they may someday mistake your finger as a treat and sometimes competition for treats can be hot and it's every rat for themselves. You don't want your finger caught up in that cross-fire! Always associate anything going through the bars of the cage as something good, and something to be calm about and not try and drag off into oblivion. I like to do small pets and scratches - don't get too crazy at first. Take time to learn your rat. Good handling practices with your rats includes washing your hands before *and* after interacting with them. You never know what kind of pathogens you may be carrying on you from your day of adventure outside your home. This practice is an extra measure to help keep your furry family safe! As a bonus you can try using various soaps before interacting with them to get them used to your hand smelling differently but not fully attract them to try and eat it. They will be curious, maybe taste test a little bit, but they shouldn't just chomp it. Young rats are still learning bite inhibition, even when they go home with you. For the most part, they're coming out of the mouthy stage (they're like little piranha when their eyes open!), but some can be extra mouthy and want to pull you around their cage to show you stuff, or take you with them for cuddles. If for some reason, a rat is biting a little too hard for your comfort, you can wiggle your fingers and often times, this causes the rat to ease up on their bite strength next time they interact with your finger. This especially includes through the bars of the cage and seems to work well. An over excited rat, however, may bite harder if it does not understand that it is biting too hard to begin with. At that point, pull your hand away and stop interaction for a moment. If the behavior happens again after you attempt interaction again, stop interacting for longer than the first time. The lack of interaction to the rat is the consequence for biting too hard. They will usually learn to bite softer with this method, and is largely how I teach young rats they're going in a little too hot and to calm it down some.
  • How many total rats do you have?
    This number is due to change, as a breeder. Based on my needs for line improvement, I will likely never be able to give a static answer to this question, as it will be different depending on when it's asked. I do, however, try to keep it at a modest number of animals that I can give enough attention to, clean, and still feed on an average budget and busy schedule.
  • What other animals do you keep in your home?
    I am also a mouse breeder so I feel it's obligatory to say I have mice in my home haha. Other than that, I own an elderly GSD/Malamute mix named Snow, and an elderly cat named Tomou. I also own a Columbian Boa.
  • What kind of caging do you use for your rats?
    This answer differs a little depending on the purpose of the caging in that moment. For my community, pet and "standby" breeding rats, I use 4-Level Exotic Nutrition cages. These are very similar to Critter Nation cages with a few slight differences. These are used as more permanent cages, or in between adult breeders' breeding intervals. For my breeding pairs and maternity cages, I use large storage bins modified into rat cages with ventilation and everything. These are temporary cages, meant to only be used for a short period of time and limited numbers of animals within them.
  • What kind of diet do you feed your rats?
    I am currently experimenting with different foods to include into my rats diet. As a staple base, I use a high quality dog food and pasta. I love mixing in other things like BOSS, Hog Feed, cereal, mealworms, etc. There is a very handy calculating tool I like using to help balance the nutrients of the overall diet I mix up.
  • What kind of bedding do you use for your rats?
    I have been using softwood bedding for my rats. Paper bedding was so nice to consider, but its super bad for their health. So despite the mess the softwood makes, it works for me for now. I am looking for better solutions, however, as the softwood makes the rats sneeze some, so I'm constantly keeping my eye out for new possible bedding ideas.
  • How often do you have available rats for adoption?
    I do not primarily breed based on public needs or wants for adoption, unfortunately. I have a lot of goals for the rats I produce and do not like to breed my rats just to breed lots of babies to adopt out. I will only pair up rats to breed if it furthers my goals in the line. I will always have potential holdbacks from every litter I breed, and any rats I decide not to keep to further my goals, will be placed for adoption. Some litters, I may not have any babies that qualify for holdbacks in the direction I am looking to go, so the entire litter will be for adoption. That said, occasionally, I hold back more rats than I can actually keep into adulthood, so I can observe their temperaments and health as they get older. Once I decide on the rat that gets to help me continue my progress, I may put the other rat up for adoption as well. Further, I sometimes get in rescues or fosters, or eventually I will possibly have retired breeders that I, sadly, cannot keep as pets due to space confinements. These rats may also pop up on the available page of the website when I have them. Lastly, I do not always place older, retired, fostered rats up on the available page of my site and they get rehomed silently as I very carefully select the homes these rats go to. Feel free to ask me if I have any rats, at the time of inquiry, that may fall under this circumstance.
  • At what age do you adopt baby rats to new homes?
    Depending on the line, I begin to adopt babies between 6-8wo, typically. Babies enter a fear period usually between 5-8wo, and sometimes another one around 4-6mo. Depending on the litter and individuals, I will sometimes adopt more confident lines/litters out around 6wo so they bond with their family through the fear period. For project or less confident lines/litters, I hold babies back until the fear period is over to better assess their temperaments. The more confident lines seem to handle new scary things much more boldly than my project lines, at the moment. There may be other reasons I hold the babies until about 8wo before they get sent to new homes and these other reasons can vary depending on life situations and events.
  • What happens to baby rats that don't get adopted to new families?
    Baby rats that don't get adopted right away are safe and sound here until someone who may be interested in them comes along. I treat these rats just like my own and they live within the community with the rest of my breeding and pet rats. They will not be bred if I intend to adopt them out, but they will live a happy pet life until that day comes.
  • Do you sell any rats as feeders?
    I do not sell my rats as feeders.
  • What should I do if I can no longer keep a rat I adopted from you?
    Please contact me first and let me know. I will always do what I can to take any rats I adopt out back if anything happens to your home or life situation where you can no longer keep them. These rats, as long as they are healthy and in good temperament, will likely be adopted back out to vetted adopters waiting for a rat from me. If you are in a temporary situation and need a place for your rat to stay for a short period of time, I can potentially assist you with this as well if I have the space. A small fee will be required for your rat(s) while in my care and there will be an agreed time limit put in place to get your rat(s) back by, at which time comes, the rat(s) will be adopted out. I will also require a signed release waiver, even in a temporary situation. The above literature sounds cold and too formal, so here's my little informal disclaimer: Please do not be afraid to talk to me about your situation. I do not require details, but I am here to help however I can and the more I understand, the more I can help. I do have a tendency to want to help so much that I will burden myself financially and physically, so the above "rules" are simply outlines to help restrict digging myself into the ground. I will not gouge your pockets with fees or sell/adopt your rat out behind your back, without trying with ample time and effort to reach you first. I will always communicate with you before making any decisions regarding your animal, if I am helping you out during a rough time.
  • What should I do if a rat bites me and breaks skin or causes injury?
    Please let me know immediately! I am here to help in anyway I can, including but not limited to, figuring out why the rat bite occurred and/or replacing the rat with a new one if you so wish. Sometimes bites happen to no fault of your own. A rat could be in pain or suffering from something, going blind/deaf etc, and its only way to communicate to you that it doesn't feel well is by biting. Sometimes a rat has made a bad association to you, a smell you wear, a person or animal near you when interacting with the rat, etc and has learned to bite in response. Sometimes a rats genetics were "wired wrong" and their feisty nature has now turned aggressive as it got older. Sometimes a rat may allow me to do something to it does not trust an adopter to do. Whatever the reason, you will not be left in the dark without help. I have not had any of these situations occur yet, but animals are not perfect and sometimes things happen. I always strive to breed biddable rats who will not bite even under stress or pressure, but the only way I can improve on such issues if they occur in a line, is if I know about them. So please do not hesitate to contact me immediately, even if you think it's something you (or your child) did or provoked! Information like this helps me in making selections to further improve all my lines.
  • Will you adopt out rats for breeding purposes?
    I hope to eventually help the rat breeding community and adopt out rats from my lines for breeding purposes. Since I have only had the rats for a year, as of writing this, I cannot confidently say that various line issues have been bred out, yet, and I do not want to pass my problems onto other breeders to deal with. My goal is to get as close to breeding any issues out as possible before opening my lines up to other breeders.
  • Are your rats good with children?
    This line has had great success being placed in homes with children. I am always striving to breed towards tolerant and expressive rats so that families with children can still enjoy owning a rat in their home without worry of accidents occurring while children learn boundaries and interaction rules. As breeders, it is our goal to breed towards the most tolerable temperament possible, to prevent damaging circumstances in instances where maybe a child tried to pet, pick up, or grab the rat a little too roughly. That said, a rat is still an animal with teeth, and biting instances can occur. My goal and standard is to breed rats who find means of expressing distress in other ways before leading to a painful bite. The number one goal is to breed tolerance and patience in the rats I breed. It is important to remember that rats, similar to new puppies, can take a little bit of time to warm up to their new surroundings and family. But it is equally important to expose them to sounds and things that may startle them at first. Show them what it is and let them interact with it to see nothing bad happens. Expose your new rats to a plethora of consistent positive experiences involving your child and they will bond together very quickly. I always welcome feedback and stories on how the rats I breed are doing in their new homes, especially with other children and animals. I have heard nothing but good things thus far about my rats joining families with children - this speaks volumes to the couple of decades of effort put into their temperament. If, however, for any reason you are not satisfied with the interaction between your child and their new rat, please do not hesitate to contact me so we can find a solution together.
  • Do you have any tips for keeping my rats healthy?
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  • My rat appears to be sick! What should I do?
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  • Can you tell me anything about the health history of your current line?
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  • Can you recommend any vets in the area?
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  • How often do you breed your rats?
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  • How often do you handle babies?
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  • Do you cull your rats at all?
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  • How many litters do you breed at a time?
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  • At what age do you start breeding your rats and why?
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  • How many times do you breed your rats before they retire?
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